Why tiling done badly is so costly
You can spot poor tiling immediately: lippage between tiles, uneven grout lines, sealant pulling away from the bath. But the real problems with poor tiling are invisible — at first.
Without proper waterproofing underneath, water finds its way through grout (which is porous), through silicone (which fails over time) and into the wall and floor structure. By the time you see staining on the ceiling below or smell damp in the room, you're looking at a multi-thousand-pound repair — strip the tiles, dry the structure, treat the damp, re-tile.
Done properly the first time, bathroom tiling lasts 20+ years. Done badly, it can start leaking in two.
How we tile a bathroom
1. Substrate inspection and prep
Whether it's plaster, plasterboard, cement board, screed or timber — the substrate has to be sound, flat and fit for purpose before any tile goes down. In older Bridgnorth properties we often find historical patches, soft plaster, or floors that aren't level. We address these issues at prep stage rather than tiling over the problem.
2. Tanking (waterproofing)
For any wet area — around a bath, in a shower enclosure, in a wet room — we tank the floor and lower walls. This means:
- Sealing primer applied to the substrate
- Liquid or sheet waterproof membrane applied to BS 5385 standards
- Reinforcing tape on internal corners and along the floor/wall junction
- Pipe collars sealed to any pipe penetrations
- Drain seals on shower wastes
This is the bit that's invisible after the tiles go down. It's also the bit that matters most.
3. Setting out
We plan the layout before we set the first tile. The eye notices small tiles at the edges of a wall, awkward cuts around windows, grout lines that don't align between wall and floor. Proper setting out means starting from focal points (centre of the back wall, vanity centre line) and working outward so cuts fall in less visible places.
4. Tiling
Notched trowel work for solid bedding, spacers for consistent grout lines, levelling systems on larger format tiles, and crucially — we don't rush the cuts. Window returns, mitred corners, pipe penetrations: all visible details that separate proper work from rushed work.
5. Grouting and sealing
Correct grout choice for the application (some areas need flexible grout, some need anti-bacterial). Joints fully filled, cleaned off properly, and silicone-sealed at all movement joints (floor/wall, around the bath, in corners). We use sanitary-grade silicone with mould resistance.
Tile choice — what works in $Bridgnorth bathrooms
We don't sell tiles, so our advice is genuinely impartial. A few things we've learned from working in Bridgnorth:
- Porcelain over ceramic for floors. Harder, less porous, much better long-term. The price difference is small relative to the lifespan.
- R10 minimum, R11 ideal, for wet zone floors. Slip rating matters and is often overlooked.
- Large format hides imperfections, mosaic shows them. If your walls aren't perfectly flat (common in older homes), don't choose mosaic — it amplifies every undulation.
- Pattern direction matters. Long thin tiles laid vertically increase perceived height; horizontally, they widen a room. Worth considering in small spaces.
- Matte tiles for floors. Easier to keep clean than glossy, less prone to slip when wet.
What's included
- Substrate inspection and prep
- Plaster repair or board replacement where needed
- Floor levelling where required
- Full tanking of wet areas
- Tile cutting (including wet-saw work for large-format porcelain)
- Pattern setting out and dry-lay where relevant
- Grouting in your colour choice
- Sanitary silicone to all movement joints
- Tile sealing where required (natural stone, some porcelain)
- Site cleaned daily, final clean on completion
Tiling as part of a larger job, or standalone
We do both. Tiling forms part of every full bathroom installation and refurbishment we do. We also tile as a standalone service where a homeowner has the rest of the work in hand but wants a proper tiling job done by someone who'll take it seriously.
Related reading
- Best tiles for a small bathroom
- Matte vs gloss tiles — which is better for bathrooms?
- How to clean grout without damaging tiles
- How to re-seal a shower
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does bathroom tiling cost in Bridgnorth?
Tiling labour costs typically £40–£60 per square metre depending on tile size, pattern complexity and substrate. Add the tile cost itself: ceramic from £20/m², porcelain £45+/m², natural stone considerably more. A complete bathroom re-tile (floor + walls) typically lands between £1,500 and £4,500.
Do I need to waterproof before tiling?
Yes — proper waterproofing (tanking) of wet areas is non-negotiable. Tiles and grout are not waterproof on their own. We tank the floor and lower walls in any shower or bath area before any tile goes down. This is what stops leaks five years later.
Can you tile over existing tiles?
Sometimes, yes — if the existing tiles are well-bonded, flat and the substrate behind is sound. But tiling-over has limitations: thicker wall build-up (which can affect door frames), and you lose the chance to fix any waterproofing issues underneath. We'll always advise honestly at the site visit.
How long does bathroom tiling take?
A typical bathroom wall and floor tiling job takes 3–5 working days depending on tile size, complexity and substrate prep needed. Larger-format tiles and pattern work (herringbone, mosaic) take longer than standard rectangular tiles.
What tile size works best for small bathrooms?
Counter-intuitively, larger tiles often work better in small bathrooms — they have fewer grout lines so visually the space looks larger. We typically recommend 300×600mm or 600×600mm wall tiles for compact Bridgnorth bathrooms. Mosaic borders or feature strips can break up a wall without overdoing it.